Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Morbier

All cheese seems to have it's season and now is the time to enjoy Morbier. That's right, Morbier is the cheese of the month! I have seen it in the United States, but it isn't wasy to find and it's not always available.
It is a rich soft elastic whole cows milk cheese produced in the Jura Region and originated in the village of the same name around 1795. The color of the cheese is very pale ivory/yellow and has very little odor. It should have many very small holes through out.
It is most noted for the black stripe of charcoal that runs through the center of the cheese. The charcoal is tasteless and today serves no real purpose except to pay homage to the history of this cheese.
The cheeses were produced on small remote farms. The forms were rather large and in the same region as Comte, which is a much harder cheese.
The Morbier moulds required quite a bit of milk and the farmers would only be able to make enough curd to partially fill the mould in the evening. To keep the layer clean, they would sprinkle fine ash from the cauldron fire that the milk was curdles in. The mould was then finished with the milk from the next morning. the black ash line became the signature of the cheese, much as the five reed leaf wrappers identify a Livarot.
Morbier has the flavor of cream, it also has the aroma of hay. There is no sweetness, but a hint of hazelnut with a bite. It melts well and in the Doub and the Jura, the cheese is used in potato dishes.
It is also served in small ramekins covered with bread crumbs and broiled as an appetizer.
I find it a well flavored, but not strong cheese that marries well with simple red wines.
I have been told that it is good with dry whites as well.......
I have a very nice piece from our local cheese dealer in Objat that seems to be at its peak.........

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